10. Lipstick

 
        This cosmetic product so seductive, lipstick has, in addition to the role of aesthetics, the function of maintenance, moisturizing and protecting for lips.
        Lipsticks come in different colors and shades, fatter or drier, matte or pearl.
        Also, lipsticks can be:
- Classical, bar-shaped, solid texture;
- Liquid, container shaped, fitted with an applicator;
- Transfer resistant, bar-shaped, or liquid formula with an applicator and fixative;
- Gloss (lip lacquer), colorless or slightly colored, pearl or not, designed to give lips shine and extra volume.
        Lipstick color should take into account the color of hair, skin, outfit, makeup and even teeth.
        Lip shape also plays an important role in lipstick choosing taking into account that dark shades diminish, the light colors highlight and lip gloss and nacre gives volume.

        How to choose lipstick:
     • Depending on skin color:
-Very dark skin (black): dark brown, plum, garnet color.
-Creole skin: chocolate, brick red-brown, red-orange.
-Yellow skin: pink, garnet, peach.
-Pink skin: generally pastel colors such as beige, pink, peach.
-Very white skin: intense velvety colors: red, orange, cyclamen.

     • Depending on the color of teeth:
-White-teeth: no restriction on colors.
-Yellow-teeth: cold colors contrasting with the yellow teeth like pink.
-Gray teeth: warm colors such as beige or cappuccino.

        Choose a lipstick of the same color family as the blush.
 

9. Blush

 
     Applied properly, blush completes makeup, giving skin a radiant and fresh look. It has the role of emphasizes the cheekbones and for adds color to the cheeks.

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For its application take into account the face shape, skin color and the overall makeup. Also, be aware that the upward lines optically elongate and lift the face features and the downward lines down them.
    Blush can have two different textures:

Cream, liquid, gel. Apply directly over foundation, before powder application with the fingers, sponge or a blush brush. It will fades very well;

Pressed powder. Apply only after having applied the powder, otherwise it can create unaesthetic streaks. Fade it very well.    Blush can have a matte, metallic, pearly or slight shimmery finish.

  For oily skin, powder blush is the best. Instead, dry skin needs a cream blush which will give it a very natural complexion. Youthful skin, no blemishes, looks gorgeous with a gel blush.

   The choice of blush color depending on skin tone:

yellow tinted skin - warm colors: peach, gold, coral, bronze;

pinkish tinted skin - cool colors: pink, plum, fuchsia;

dark skin - plum, fuchsia, red, chocolate.

  Whatever the type, apply the blush in small quantity and very faded. For a more precise and natural looking, always apply blush on each side of the face from outwards to inwards.

 

8. Mascara

       Mascara is a cosmetic product that completes eye makeup as it enhances the appearance of the eyes. It used to curled, darken, lengthen and thicken eyelashes. Apply to the root of eyelashes and continue out to the tips. After a few seconds is necessary to apply a second coat. The motion of the brush will be in zig-zag because lashes do not stick and also to spread the mascara out evenly
.

Photo by Jim Gardner @esquisite

Emphasis on the outside corner lashes. If your eyelashes are too straight, you should try curling them using a good eye lash curler before applying mascara. Before curling, eyelashes must be dry. Curl them 3 times.
      Mascara can be regular and water resistant (waterproof). The water resistant products will remove with biphasic products, specially designed for it.
      Depending on the type of lashes they are used different types of mascara:
      •   Lengthening - ideal for short lashes;
      •   Volumizing - used especially for thin or rare eyelashes.
      If lashes are thin, use first a lengthening mascara (which will separate and lengthen them) and then apply mascara for volume which it will thicken them.
      For short eyelashes, use first a volumizing mascara (it will thicken the lashes but will make them look shorter) and then a lengthening mascara that will separate the hairs, giving them a false eyelashes look.
      If you are a lucky owner of thick and curved mother-nature lashes, is sufficient to use mascara with curved brush. Your eyelashes will be enviable.
      On special or emotional occasions, or when wearing contact lenses is absolutely necessary to use waterproof mascara.
      Do not use this type of mascara all the time because it is too hard for lashes and may lead to break them. Use for removing only specials.
      Mascara can have different colors. The most common mascara is black, which gives a depth and dramatic look. Brown color fits very well in everyday makeup, especially for blondes or older women.
      There are also other colors of mascara, according to several very young girls or women: blue, green, purple, pink. This so popular cosmetic, mascara should not be missing from the kit of a woman. Just a little mascara and your eyes will shine.

7. Eyeshadows

      Available in an impressive variety of colors, eye shadow is to beautify the eyes, to define the eye shape and to enhance the iris color. It comes as pressed or loose powder, cream, stick or liquid formula. Cream eyeshadows are more difficult to use because they crease very fast.

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      Eye shadow can be matte, pearly or shimmery. Shimmery eye shadows are recommended for younger people because they emphasize wrinkles and every little line around the eyes. For a more mature eye lid is recommended a slight shimmer or regular shadow but not too mate. Eye shadow color must harmonize with the skin, hair, iris color, clothing and age.
      Applying eye shadow should take into account the geometry of the eyes, given that the dark nuances always “close” and the light shades “open” the sight.
      Iris color will be accentuated if the eye shadow color will be complementary.
      Eye shadow applying is made by brush, sponge applicator or with your fingers.
      Before eye shadows applying it will create a powder base foundation for them to last longer.
      The type of lighting plays an important role in choosing color cosmetics color. Thus, we must know that the cold light, fluorescent (neon) is tedious and cools the colors and the incandescent (normal light bulbs) gives colors a warm touch.
      •  fluorescent light → warm colors: yellow, orange, gold, salmon;
      •  incandescent light → cool colors: blue, green, turquoise, cyclamen and red (some tones)
         and black;
      •  crepuscular light (of candle) → violet, lilac, purple.
      In natural daylight, colors are brighter and more saturated. 

6. Eyeliner

Photo by Ashley Harrigan

LIQUID EYELINER

Photo by the Italian voice

         Liquid eyeliner gives your eyes a perfectly defined shape, higher than contour pencil. It is an opaque liquid and it is applied with a thin and soft brush or a marker applicator. It is applied slightly more difficult and requires more precision.

      It can be both classic and water resistant formula (waterproof).

      Apply after eye shadow starting from the middle of the eyelid to outwards drawing a slightly upward line. Then, draw a line from the inside of the eyelid to the middle.

      For easier application, it can be traced a line with a contour pencil before eyeliner. It is only recommended for upper eyelid because it looks tougher and may also irritate the eyes.

      GEL EYELINER

Photo by Breelynne

           Gel eyeliner is easier to apply than liquid eyeliner because it dries harder and it doesn’t crack.

          Also, it lasts longer. It comes in a little pot and is applied with a sharp-angled brush. It is recommended only for upper eyelid because may cause an infection.
 

5. Contour pencils

      Contour pencils, used in makeup are of different types and for different purposes. Thus, there are eyebrow, eye and lip pencils.

      Eyebrow pencils are harder than others, with diminished pigment, to not create an ugly appearance and an artificial eyebrows look. They are found in different shades for matching each natural eyebrows color. They are usually fitted with a little brush used both to uniform the pencil color on eyebrows and to comb them.

      Eye pencils are used to shape the eyes, giving them both shape and brightness. They can be simple, waterproof or transfer resistant (long-stay, color-stay). Some pencils are enhanced with various substances that nourish the skin: vitamin E, jojoba oil and so on. Kohol or khôl eyeliner, whose name is of Arabic origin, is used both outside the eye contour and inside the eyelid (on the waterline). 

Photo by melloveschallah

Used inside the lower eyelid will accentuate the eyes and will give them brightness but, be carefully, dark colors will make they look smaller. White or beige khôl pencil applied to the conjunctiva of the eyelid (waterline) will make your eyes look bigger.

      Khôl pencil is also called kajal in some regions of the globe (India). They are basically the same thing. It is a pencil with soft powdered texture, a lot more intensity than classic pencils. Khôl pencil is specially designed to be applied on the inside part of the eye without irritating the sensitive skin of this area. It comes in form of a classic pencil and also as compact eye shadow or loose powder.

      Lip pencils are used to shape the lips, outlining them, correct the imperfections and the asymmetries and to increase the lipstick resistance. Colors and shades are different to suit particular lipstick shade and color. Pencil and lipstick must have the same color and tone. Apply the lip pencil with light lines and extend it on the surface of the lips. As eye pencils, it may be in various forms, wood or plastic cylinder and retractable pencil (not sharpened). They are also waterproof formulas, transfer resistance or classical.

4. Powder

      For completely makeup, powder is absolutely necessary. It takes place after the use of foundation and concealer. Its role is to set foundation, to equalize, to soften skin and matiffy. Also, face powder creates a basis for applying makeup like powder blush and  loose or pressed eye shadows.

Photo by Alejandro Martinez.

      Face powder can have two different textures:
Loose powder → It is the best powder for a perfect finish as it gives the skin a flawless effect. Apply to entire skin surface in a thin layer from the center of the face (the T zone) using a large brush with soft hair. The movement will be downwards, from top to bottom, in the direction of increasing facial hair fluff. For a more polished look for dry skin, you can apply the powder with circular motions.

Pressed powder → It is recommended for the makeup retouch throughout the day as it gives the skin a matte finish. It is usually provided with a mirror and it can be carried easily in your purse. Tap the powder firmly into the foundation using a clean puff. Apply it also to the eyelids and lips. Don’t forget to powder the nose wings. Before applying powder, you must remove sebum tapping your face with a tissue. Don’t apply to much powder under the eyes.
      Powder is not recommended for very dry or infected skin.
      When you are looking for a powder, remember that it darkens the shade of foundation. Therefore, choose one with a lighter tone than this. If you want to use only powder after moisturizer, without foundation, select a shade as close as your natural skin color.
      You can use two shades of powder if you want to do some optical correction on your face.

      Basic characteristics of a qualitative powder are:

  to have fine texture, to be slippery and to smooth skin;

  to make the skin soft;

  to be long-lasting;

  to have absorption power, not change the scent, to standardize skin color;

  to have coverage power to hide imperfections.

 

     For all these features are used different ingredients: zinc stearate, talc, chalk, magnesium stearate, silk, precipitaded chalk, magnesium carbonated, kaolin, titanium dioxide (which, under the flash of the camera it gives a pale hint to skin) and so on.

Photo by LaVladina

   
      Powder can have different shades:

Tint powder - May have different shades of color, used depending on the skin natural color.

Colorless powder - It looks white but it not colors the skin, not changing the foundation color.

Translucent powder - The most favorite powder of makeup artists. It is clear and it shouldn’t change the color of foundation. If it is colored, should be used carefully to avoid creating spots on the skin. Translucent powder with a slight yellow tint can successfully hide dark circles and gives skin a special brightness. Instead, translucent powder with light pink tint, removes the optical signs of fatigue. If your skin has fair to medium tones, choose a light translucent powder. For tanned or darker skin look for a medium or dark translucent powder.

Tan powder (bronzing) - It can be used both for contours of the face and to give a bronze glow.

Bright powder - Contains pearlescent particles. It applies only to the cheeks, nose for highlight. It is not recommended for application on entire face because it will highlight any skin imperfections (pimples, wrinkles, scars).

2. Foundation

    Foundation, chosen especially depending on color, texture and skin type, is aimed at smoothing the skin, creating a thin film, almost invisible to the surface. Foundation can be termed as a “second skin”.

Photo by James Theophane

    What is foundation?   It is a mix of pigments, moisturizing substances, fixing agents, powder.  In makeup, foundation can be compared with a canvas on which an artist creates a flawless face.

                 When you choose foundation you must keep in mind:

Color - foundation must match exactly as natural skin color;

Texture - foundation can be matte (oil free) or shiny (oily);

Coverage - foundation can have different texture, which depends on the coverage.It may be fluid, cream, compact, dry;

Lasting - foundation must be long lasting;

Skin-type - foundation must have the capacity to hydrate, protect and maintain skin;

Validity - when you acquire a foundation should carefully read the expiration date.

                Depending on the consistency, foundation can be:

Fluid - is the most widely used type of foundation, primarily due to the ease with which it applies,to fine texture and, its ability to hydrate the skin. Medium coverage. Ideal for normal to dry skin;

Cream - is recommended for dry and mature skins or those sensitive and dry.

Photo by bellasenzatempo

It has a high covering power. Apply a thin layer;

Compact - because dries it is recommended for oily skin complexions. It has a high density due to high content of powder. Compact foundation has a wide coverage and it is ideal for skins with problems (scars, pimples, etc). It is mainly used in theater and television;

Corrective - has a dense texture and different colors. It is used to cover pimples, spots, scars and other skin problems;

Tinted - is used to give skin a tanned and radiant light;

Dried (pancake) - the foundation used in television because it doesn’t reflects light and it is long lasting. It is used both on face and body. Being very strong, leave no trace on clothes;

   If you have hypersensitive skin, use a light foundation (hypoallergenic), with a special formula that does not contain irritants such as fruit acids, perfumes and so on. 

                 Depending on the shade, foundation can be:

Beige, peach - ideal for white, pale skins;

Rose-beige, ivory - under cold complexions, pinkish, transparent skin (by which it see bluish veins);

Golden-beige, pink, beige, golden - average color skins, under warm, yellowish hue;

Dark-beige, peach, bronze - under dark complexions.

 

There are also makeup base used before foundation or mixed with it. They have in their composition special components using to correct the skin's natural color and to give makeup brightness and strength:

Green - correct skins that have reddish tint;

Pink - correct pale-skin;

White - confers light to normal to olive skin.

                 How to choose the right foundation:

For oily skin: foundation must be fluid, mattifying, oil-free, non-comedogenic or water-based;

For dry skin: you must choose a creamy foundation, moisturizer, enriched with vitamin E.

 TIPS:
   

When you looking for the right color of foundation, apply a little amount of it on chin, in natural light. If it match the natural face complexion, and the neck skin color, you found your own foundation.

Apply foundation with special brush, latex sponge or fingers, from the center of face, to the hairline always taking care not to see any lines of demarcation.

You can mix two shades of foundation, the same type, to find the right shade.

For a natural, uniform foundation with a damp cosmetic sponge, wringing well.

if you have chosen the right shade, there is no need to apply foundation on the neck. Apply it gently and lost under the chin, to the neck line.

 

1. Cleanser, toner, moisturizer

 A properly makeup starts with the preparing of skin. It is absolutely necessary to create a makeup base that all our effort to be supportive.

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 Cleanser, according to skin type, will clean the impurities (make-up, oil, dead skin cells), leaving the skin perfectly clean. Apply it all over your face and neck, wait few seconds and remove it with cotton pads until it remains clean.

    Toner, specifically designed for each skin type, is meant to remove any remaining cleanser and impurities from the skin, close pores, preparing the skin for the next steps. It also helps to balance the skins pH levels. Toner can be replaced with mineral water, thermal water or herbal infusion chosen depending on the nature of skin (oily skin - sage, lavender, mint, thyme; dry and sensitive skin - chamomile, linden, elder, mallow; couperose skin- hazel; sensitive skin - rosewater). Apply it gently over to the whole face, avoid the eye area.

 Moisturizer will protect your skin and create the makeup base. It obviously should be chosen depending on your skin type. Massage your skin and neck gently with moisturizing cream, wait for 10 minutes to beabsorbed into the skin and then move to the proper makeup. For the eye area use a special cream and apply it in thin, light circular massage starting with the under eyes area, from the outside to inside (towards the nose).

  Apply cleanser, toning lotion and moisturizer only with upwelling, bottom up, avoiding to extent the skin to the chin.